Paris Opera

Tuesday

Though our pace is somewhat slower today, we find tea, coffee, and chocolate to stuff into luggage preparing for the return trip to TN.

Lunch was a true delight.  I wanted to go to this particular restaurant only on the merit of their really cool web site (watch Le film!).  After two failed attempts to obtain dinner reservations, we stopped by for lunch and were promptly seated at Chez Janou.

Chez Janou

2 rue Roger Verlomme, 3d arr.

Metro:Chemin Vert or Bastille

Tel. 01 42 72 28 41

Open everyday for lunch & dinner

Reservations for dinner a must

Black and white photos, old show posters, mirrors, and decorative tiles around the windows transport the diner to Paris of a bygone era.

The food was excellent.  Presentation was stunning, taste was fresh, and the sauce.....the French do know their sauces.  I'm not sure what was in the sauce.  It was good on my fish, and it was good on the end of my spoon....to the last drop.  This was one of the highlight meals of Paris 2012.

We have tickets to the Bastille Opera - Opera de Paris.
Aren't our gloves lovely!

The Barber of Seville-presented in Italian with French translations on a digital display did not suppress the thrill of sitting in this stunning theatre.  Seats reached high, high, and higher into the ceiling.  Our 4th row center seats were perfect to view the orchestra and all the lively action on stage.  The sets were spectacular, alive with color as were the characters.  Figaro wore a cloak boasting gold chains, watches, and colorful cell phones, modernizing the 19th century character.

Richard Gere spoke the truth in "Pretty Woman" when he told Julia Roberts
 "People's reaction to opera is very powerful. They will either love it or hate it. If they love it, they will always love it. If they hate it, they may learn to appreciate it but it will never become a part of them."


Another lovely evening in Paris, rain and light

chocolat, the Louvre, and Eiffel

Monday

We returned to one of my favorite places in Paris, as is a tradition for our little trio.
Breakfast in Place des Vosges
At Carette

The chocolat chaud (hot chocolate) is thick, rich, and delicious. Be prepared to lick your spoon and your cup!
The macarons are as colorful as a painter's pallet and as delicious as the varied fillings-raspberry, pistachio-caramel-cafe-etc, etc, etc

This year we celebrate French delicacies by including cream scrambled eggs to the array spread across the table, as well as an Opera Cake, Saint Honore, and pain au chocolat.

We needed energy for our journey to the Louvre.......

Braving the brisk wind and light rain, we make our way to one of the entrances of the Louvre. People are massed around the pyramid, some sitting and resting their tired feet, others standing on stone pedistals photographing themselves touching the top of the pyramid (visual play on objects).

The long lines inside the Louvre move rather quickly--one line to purchase a ticket from the kiosk, another line to pass through security, another line to enter the display area...and a mob of people pressing their way to see Mona Lisa.

Martha and Jerry place their 50th wedding anniversary love lock on a bridge near the Louvre, Eiffel standing stately in the background under a cloud filled sky.

Afterwards, we walk east along the Seine, gazing at treasures hidden inside the green bookseller stalls-postcards, posters, coasters, old books, magazine ads, Eiffel tower replicas...

Though it's cool and windy, the sun does intermittently make it's way around the clouds.  We sit at an outdoor cafe and watch the world roll by, while smearing cheese onto a crunchy baguette.

Later in the evening, we rush, rush, run, rush up the Metro steps and onto the Trocadero plaza.  Eiffel tower twinkles at 10PM.....but it didn't.   Eiffel tower twinkles at 10:30PM per the security officials...but it didn't.

11:00PM - finally - - -

another perspective of Paris

Need a break from my Paris ramblings....?

Here's a link written from Martha and Jerry's viewpoint regarding my Paris visit...they say such nice things and make me smile.

They are the best tour guide & tour director around!

CLICK HERE

American Church in Paris (ACP)

Sunday  8:10AM Paris

"Lord of all, to Thee we raise
This, our hymn of grateful praise."

(For the Beauty of the Earth by Folliott S. Pierpoint  1864)

Everyone in Paris should be singing this hymn on this glorious day, as there is Sunshine in Paris!

Church bells and sounds from the trees...
Promises to be another wonderful day!

11AM worship at the American Church in Paris along the left bank of the Seine, and afterwards a leisurely walk to the Tuileries Gardens for lunch, via Alexander III

We watched a French model photography shoot along Pont Alexander III and also in the Tuileries Gardens.  The girls were tall, thin, beautiful, dressed in colorful summer dresses billowing in the breeze, and one wore shoes with 4 inch heals, which is to be expected but how she walked on the uneven ground I do not know!

Another Midnight in Paris moment- we tried to photograph the Alexander III bridge, the Eiffel tower, and the green spire of the American Church in Paris as it was shown in the movie.  Though we did attempt to recreate the picture from the correct angle, we quickly determined that the movie set camera equipment was far superior to ours. The church actually sits in front of Eiffel; however, perspective from the movie camera shot shows Eiffel in the foreground.  Walking farther away from the bridge/Eiffel/church, the perspective changes.

We enjoyed a lunch of savory crepes and sandwiches at an outdoor cafe in the Tuileries Gardens while gazing upon the beauty of the area and listening to a hum of French conversations (none of which we understood).

Consulting our trusty map, we boarded the Metro to the 7th arr and walked to Coutume Coffee.  Known for their in-house roasted beans, the shop has the feel of a local coffee house, nestled behind a doorway in a block of retail merchants. (Paris Patisseries Coutume Coffee)

High on the counter stands their glass globe and tube contraption used to brew 24 hour slow drip coffee.  We sampled the cold coffee which was smooth and flavorful.  I enjoyed a cappuccino.  And, I orded a shot of espresso.  The waitress returned with a second shot, stating that the first had been made incorrectly.  How nice of her...  I didn't know the difference; however, the first one was strong, and the second  contained half the liquid and was twice as strong. Yet, after the first sip, the natural oils from the roasted coffee beans left a smooth mouth feel.  Quite enjoyable especially after adding a little cream and raw sugar.

The companies roaster sits in the back of the store on a wooden platform.  Sadly they were not roasting on the day we visited; I would have enjoyed watching the process.

Later in the afternoon, Martha and I walked through the live bird market, and along the Seine on lle de la Cite, rested on a bench at Notre Dame de Paris, then continued on to lle St-Louis.  Though Berthillon ice cream would have been delicious, the lines were just too long.

Resting for a while, Seine in background; always a map in hand

Dinner at Glou of hamburger, duck, steak, blueberry sorbet, pistacio ice cream, and chocolate mousse ended another lovely day.

Paris Flea Market

Saturday 7:45AM
cool - overcast - gentle rainfall - birds singing and the ever present cooing of pigeons

During these long summer days, the light seems to be constant.  There's light at 11PM and light at 5:30AM.  I don't want to miss capturing any of the light, but I just must sleep and rest my tired legs for a few hours.

Today, we're headed to a street market,  Marche aux Puces (Paris-Porte de Vanves) in the 14th arrondissement which is south about an hour by metro.

It is at the corner of av Georges Lafenestre & av Marc Sangnier.  The market's full name is "Marche Aux Puces De La Porte De Vanves" 

According to one book, "The Vanves flea market is the smallest and, some say, friendliest of the markets. Av. Georges Lafenestre has lots of curios that don't quite qualify as antiques and Av Marc Sangnier is lined with stalls of new clothes, shoes, handbags, and household items"

rain... rain... rain

The street market consists of tents lined on either side of a very long sidewalk, branching to the right and left at the end of the street. Food vendors sell refreshment for shoppers, and merchants haggle with shoppers over Euro prices on mostly unpriced items. "One man's junk is another man's treasure" could be the motto of this market.  I'm taking someone's junk back to TN in the form of a little Limoges tea cup and saucer and a few small spoons.

This is not the more famous flea market in the 18th,  Porte de Clignancourt, officially called Les Puces de Saint-Ouen, but known to everyone as Les Puces (The Fleas) (info LINK HERE). 

The rain did dampen spirits a bit, both of the vendors and of the shoppers...and of me.
While reaching in my bag for an umbrella, I heard a loud thud and looked down to see camera parts lying across the concrete.

We found a dry, warm bistro, and sat and watched the rain pour down. Cappuccino and  lunch of quiche, ham and potatoes, and omelet renewed our energy to brave the water puddles and walk back to the M stop.

Since the 1st arrondissement was somewhat on our way back to the flat, we shopped on rue Montmartre at Mora-a cooks mecca. A totally different shopping experience than browsing the famous E. Dehillerin (prior visit), we found items we needed and filled our wire shopping basket.  Back on the Metro near Les Halles, we traveled back to Le Marais-home.

After requesting assistance in three camera shops, we were successful in restoring the camera to working condition.

Sunshine finally beamed through the clouds and people filled the streets, shopping, eating, and basking in the all too infrequent sun rays.

Prior to leaving for a 10 PM dinner, Martha served Kir Royales, ultra creamy cheese smeared like warm soft butter onto a crusty brown, crunchy baguette, and salted peanuts while Jerry and I worked through foreign country electronic device technical difficulties.  The Kir Royale is a beautiful drink, served in a tall champagne flute, soft pink in color and glistening with tiny bubbles rising to the surface. I will just say that one drink is enough for me, and never again on an empty stomach.

At 10PM the light looks like 3PM Memphis light, overcast somewhat with clouds.  We make our way to Au Petit Fer A Cheval (the little horseshoe) located in rue Vieille du Temple for dinner of fish, chicken, and duck, and afterwards walk to the Seine to toss coins at midnight from Pont Louis Philippe for loved ones. A stroll along Quai de Bourbon following the Midnight in Paris steps, then we turn toward home, wrapping our coats and scarves tightly to ward off the very brisk wind.

Paris midnight

looking for Hemingway at Polidor restaurant

retracing the steps of Midnight in Paris

Gazing ahead we see the Sorbonne Universite Paris
Rounding the corner we see the Pantheon
Looking behind us we see the Eiffel Tower in the distance
Walking left we see Saint-Etienne-du-Mont

and there we find 'the Steps'

Paris is magical at night.  Lights bathe centuries old buildings with a golden wash.  Padestrians stroll along the sidewalks of narrow streets, and linger in cafes until well after midnight.  Laughter, language, aromas, and the peal of bells fill the night air.

Eiffel stands guard over all with a beam of blue light.

a motor can be heard in the distance
a vehicle rounds the corner and headlights beam directly onto the steps
will the vehicle stop

It's not yet midnight

We lingered on the steps, imagining Paris of the 1920's, until just minutes prior to midnight.  As we began to make our way to the M for the journey home, Martha sounded the 12 bells.

From deep within, one must love Paris and all that affects the senses to truly embrace the City of Light.

An enchanted evening.....

M and J walk and wait (click HERE to see the YouTube video)

ageless

I saw the loveliest lady during lunch on the Champs Elysees. She displayed signs of maturity and wisdom...a life lived.

Dressed in a stylish suit skirt and jacket, fashionable low heel shoes and bag to match, she made her way down the beautiful staircase.

She was in the toilette of L'Alsae on Champs Elysees.  This was no ordinary toilette.  The walls and ceilings were lined with mirrors reflecting beautiful woodwork and flower arrangements.

She was meticulously applying mascara, lipstick, and perfume.  In addition to her wrists, she spritzed the inside of her suit jacket lapels.

She then stored all her products, delicately placed in her attractive white leather bag.

Paris is beauty at any age....


My bag, well worn and scarred, contains a camera battery......

shopping in Paris

Friday
Climbing the M steps, pushed by a gush of wind, we emerge from the Metro at Tuileries Gardens.
The gardens are breathtaking, lined with trees, sprinkled with colorful flowers, populated with people searching for peace and tranquility in a huge city of sound and sensory overload.

To the left towers the Musee de Louvre

Across rue Saint Honore  and among the stone arches stands Angelina's.

Angelina's hot chocolate and pastries attract food lovers from all over the world to the lovely mirror- walled tearoom.  One can just imagine ladies of years past dressed in lovely long gowns and matching hats, parasol in hand, sipping the hot, thick, rich chocolat chaud and eating financiers.

The sidewalks are densely populated with shoppers/admirers; we stroll at a leisurely pace along rue Saint Honore, admiring window displays and the merchandise therein. The windows are adorned with lovely French fashion, colors as vibrant as a rainbow and also as neutral as a country bread board.

A short metro ride takes us to the world famous boulevard Champs Elysees.  Tourists, serious shoppers, and outdoor cafe patrons densely populate the wide sidewalks of this massive avenue once trod by Napoleon and hundreds of others throughout history.  Fast moving small cars, bicycles, and motorcycles weave around double decker tour busses along the boulevard, horns sounding and motors revving, as they travel east to circle the Arc de Triomphe or west to circle the fountains in the  Place de la Concorde.

All the greats in the retail world fill valuable real estate on either side of the boulevard.  From the light green awning of Laduree (click the Laduree link and scroll over all the images to watch the shop come alive) to the tall building housing Louis Vuitton, to the very hip Renault Twizy showroom.

We step into Guerlain, and are swept away by aromas of French Perfumes and beautiful sales ladies, spritz bottle at hand.

A late afternoon (7PM) climb approximately 284 steps to the top of the Arc de Triomphe unfolds a 360 degree view of the city.  We watch the lights of vehicles below begin to illumine.  It's yet too early for the street lights to burn as the sky has not begun to show signs of dusk.

around Sacre Coure

Thursday
10:30 AM, two metro rides, and a walk (uphill) in a very ethnic area of Paris deposits us at the base of 262 steps leading to Sacre Coeur. Before climbing the steps, we walk into the wonderland chocolate shop of Christophe Roussel and enjoy macarons, soft in the center and paper thin crunchy on the outside, which burst alive with flavor after each bite.

Yes, we walked the steps.
Yes, we stopped as we climbed--only to take pictures...

Martha's graffiti using lipstick-marking step #262

The sky is powder blue, with a few pillowly white clouds drifting just above the top peak of the highest dome on Sacre Coeur.  I gaze upon this sight with awe as I behold the beauty.....
Though the side streets are somewhat peaceful, the square is alive with artists, restaurants, and, like me, tourists.

Lunch at Chez la Mere Catherine, in memory of Martha's mother, Catherine--snails, goat cheese salad, avacado and shrimp salad, vegetable pie which is much like a quiche

You never know when the moment will come
You look up and there it stands
Eiffel!
My first view of Eiffel came after lunch, just as we were rounding a corner to begin our decent from the church.  I smile, for this is my second Welcome Back to Paris, Gale!

We find ourselves looking for particular Paris art/graffiti.  Soon the competition emerges as we each try to be the first to spot packman tiles or Fred le Chevalier's black and white paper work. We also find Marilyn Monroe.  Paris Is Art.....everywhere.

Parting to rest before dinner, I step into Meert.

A confectionery heaven.  Danny is very helpful, for I want to taste everything!  Their famous waffle, filled with a sweet buttery vanilla bean paste is worth every calorie. The marshmallows melt in my mouth. Meert is 30 steps out my front door....I'll be back I tell Danny...

beautiful Paris morning

8:19 Thursday morning-Paris
It's beautiful here this morning.  The sun has just peaked over the corner of the apartment building

and pigeons coo in the background.  I can hardly type for wiping fresh fig and cherry juice from my fingertips---or spreading yesterday's purchase from our stroll along rue Mouffetard near the Pantheon of Androuet Gratte paille double-cream cheese on my golden brown, paper thin layer croissant.

A gentle breeze blows the white sheer curtains to the left of the antique desk-computer workstation.

Yesterday, after an 8AM flight arrival at Paris CDG airport, a somewhat slow taxi ride along the grafitti branded, congested highway, I arrived at the flat in the Marais. Martha and Jerry greeted me with open arms, flowers, gifts, fruit, cheese and pain au chocolat.

Eager to explore, we soon ventured out across the Seine (Welcome Back to Paris, Gale!) and into the Latin Quarter. Shakespeare and Company sits within view of Cathedrale Notre Dame de Paris.

As we walk upon the worn ceramic tile floor and through the very narrow corridors of the English bookstore, Shakespeare and Company, we admire the wooden beams above and stacks upon stacks of crisp new and dusty old books all around, and imagine Hemmingway walking the same steps.

The Latin Quarter is a maze of narrow curving streets lined on both sides with outdoor cafes.  Small window openings offer freshly made crepes smeared with Nutella.  Centuries old churches walled with beautiful stained glass windows stand guard over the narrow streets and all those who walk thereon.

We lunched at Terroir Parisien around 3PM-- goat cheese selections, french onion soup, asparagus salad and pork/fried egg/salad

We dined at the Clown Bar a couple of doors away from the Circus around 9PM-house made pate, bone marrow, young male chicken leg, potatoes, and pork tenderloin
We walked home from the Metro along the narrow streets bathed in the last fleeting light of the day at 10:15PM, while the sidewalk cafes were alive with patrons.

A faint glow of light at 11PM shown through the bedroom window as I finally laid my head and weary body to rest after a first glorious day in Paris.

I saw first light this morning around 6AM, thought how beautiful that would be through the lens of the camera...turned over and slept a little longer.

CDG bound

CDG

preparing for Coutume Cafe

the journey is as fulfilling as arriving at the destination

Saturday morning
coffee beans weighed, then freshly ground
aroma of freshly ground coffee beans fills the kitchen

Cool water, heating to just the right temperature
Cold milk heating and frothed
A teaspoon of vanilla bean simple syrup in the bottom of my favorite Paris cup

pour, layer, stir, dust with cinnamon

enjoy!

As I make the cappuccino, I dare to imagine the taste of a professionally prepared cup at Coutume Cafe in the 7th arrondissement.....soon......very soon

Here's the LINK to the final images from Paris 2011-4

Watch this blog for (hopefully) daily posts from The City of Light!  soon....very soon

Coutume Café
47 rue de Babylone
75007 Paris